Sometimes it takes to tango and get your head round a set of rules, something about more than one person reading the same paragraph makes more sense out of it. "Fighter Duel" is a set of rules from Phil Sabin, a 'time and motion' study of fighter combat (each game segment is 3 seconds) and the game plays around three minutes of actual combat. He ran this at the Connections 2018 Games Fair this year. Using his original research it was combined from several separate board game components [Mustangs, Spitfire, Angels One High] but I was interested in translating it to 1/144 model aircraft for a demonstration game at a local show. To aid us in our understanding we are going through a "slow walk" of the rules. First we lined up a few combat sequences and performed them over a coffee and fire side chat (see below, lining up a killing shot as a Vet RAF pilot in a Spitfire comes out of the sun to bounce a Me 109E distracted in the process of shooting another plane):
Given that this was the "best ever" position the combat odds could be in, it is "anything but a 1" to hit and my compatriot rolled a 10, a spectacular hit. For every 2 over the required score an additional hit is accrued which means a massive "four hits" - the Me 109E only has four points of damage so he goes down in quick fashion (see below, nice shooting Sailor Malan):
A dramatic explosion is deemed necessary (see below). Working through the sequence, replacing the Vet RAF pilot with a rookie (two weeks of training "special"), this time shooting from two hexes (200 yards) away, and the Luftwaffe pilot was not distracted would reduce the hit chance from 90% to 10%. If a ten had still been rolled this time only one hit would have been inflicted and the Me 109E would still be "in the fight" (slightly damaged but to no obvious effect). This seems quite historical (see below, I far prefer the model visuals of the model to counters):
The beauty of the combat system is a magic grid that converts the historic gun factors of the plane adjusted by the circumstance factors to give the hit probability. The next stage is to master the flying dynamics. Interesting as the key elements of "energy" and "turn capability" are modelled. Nothing is a given, a turn may be attempted but not necessarily made. Given the three second tome span you get another go soon, provided you are not in the sights of an enemy. Being hex based it does have the advantage of keeping the planes locked into a specific place (that can be reconstructed or remembered), so an accidental knock does not subtly overwrite the "billimeter" positioning.
The ongoing adventures of a boy who never grew out of making and playing with plastic model kits (and even some metal ones too). Also a wargamer in search of the perfect set of wargaming rules for WWII Land and 20th Century Naval campaigns.
Thursday, 27 September 2018
Wednesday, 26 September 2018
What can you learn from 1994 Knowledge? (2) There "IS" another way of doing things!
Following slavishly to the letter of the painting instructions my troop of Ultra Marines (plus Terminator) get the base coat treatment - Vallejo Game Colour 50% Imperial Blue mixed with 50% Ultramarine Blue (see below):
Then the shade colour (Vallejo Game Colour Imperial Blue) follows (see below, if truth be told I might have been a little too sloppy for my liking):
Next is to continue the base/painting to cover the other colours too! If I am learning anything so far it is to put less paint on the figure, mix or rather dilute with water and be a smart/clean but less fussy (or rather more subtle) with the brush.
Then the shade colour (Vallejo Game Colour Imperial Blue) follows (see below, if truth be told I might have been a little too sloppy for my liking):
Next is to continue the base/painting to cover the other colours too! If I am learning anything so far it is to put less paint on the figure, mix or rather dilute with water and be a smart/clean but less fussy (or rather more subtle) with the brush.
Tuesday, 25 September 2018
It's curtains for me!
Literally (see below):
Their practical use in the home was attempted to be extended by dying them a dark, lush green (smile, nice choice of colour don't you think - only partly encouraged by me). Alas, it was not to be, but rather than throw them away, for me it was a nice windfall of battlefield terrain cover.
:)
Their practical use in the home was attempted to be extended by dying them a dark, lush green (smile, nice choice of colour don't you think - only partly encouraged by me). Alas, it was not to be, but rather than throw them away, for me it was a nice windfall of battlefield terrain cover.
:)
Sunday, 23 September 2018
Warlord Games: Cruel Sea
Have to say I'm interested in knowing more about this one!
http://wargameterrain.blogspot.com/2018/09/breaking-warlord-games-cruel-seas-world.html
However I am pondering on the facts that:
I think it might be quite expensive from the models .. but what about the rules? Can they be borrowed for other scales?
Stop Press: Update from Renko
http://wargameterrain.blogspot.com/2018/09/breaking-warlord-games-cruel-seas-world.html
However I am pondering on the facts that:
- I have various ships in naval scales of 1/3000 .. 1/1200 .. 1/720 .. 1/700 .. 1/600 .. 1/500 .. 1/72 already
- My "coastal forces" are currently 1/720 .. 1/700 . 1/600 (Skytex and various plastic manufacturers) with the thought of expanding my Navwar 1/3000 WW2 ship collection in that direction too
- The Warloard Games models I havse seen pictures of looked very good; exquisite (practical for wargaming but also detailed enough to engage modellers) so I think they are between 1/350 and 1/200?
I think it might be quite expensive from the models .. but what about the rules? Can they be borrowed for other scales?
Stop Press: Update from Renko
Saturday, 22 September 2018
Jadotsville 1961
Every now and then you find something "new" and all you can say is: "Well I never!" That is the only way I can convey my amazement on watching "The Siege of Jadotsville" courtesy of Netflix and an amazing eye opener on the history of the Congo in the 1960's (see below, courtesy of NetFlix film):
At first I thought it was a made up story (akin to Apollo 19 Moon Monsters) but the truth was so close to home as shown in the film. Various scenarios immediately shout out probably using AK47?
PS: Best line in the film [Note: As time of writing remembering it] to me was: French (ex)Legionnaire Commander of the Mercenarie s speaking to teh Irish Company Commander. "You Commander have no experience of war." Quinlan (the Irish Commander) "I don't know about that. I have been married for ten years!"
For more information see:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siege_of_Jadotville
At first I thought it was a made up story (akin to Apollo 19 Moon Monsters) but the truth was so close to home as shown in the film. Various scenarios immediately shout out probably using AK47?
PS: Best line in the film [Note: As time of writing remembering it] to me was: French (ex)Legionnaire Commander of the Mercenarie s speaking to teh Irish Company Commander. "You Commander have no experience of war." Quinlan (the Irish Commander) "I don't know about that. I have been married for ten years!"
For more information see:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siege_of_Jadotville
Labels:
1961,
AK47,
Congo,
Film,
Irish Army,
Netflix,
Siege Of Jadotsville,
UN
Friday, 21 September 2018
What can you learn from 1994 Knowledge (1) How to Paint a Space Marine!
It is a strange question but what have I learnt from "the state of the art of figure painting from 1994"? I am a Charity Shop hustler always looking out for bargains. You can pick all manner of strange treasures there, unmade model kits (from Airfix WWI Female tanks to Trumpeter Chinese jets), Board Games at knock down prices) and items of curio. This is how I came across a collection of early 1990's GW Space Marine stuff, in particular a Warhammer 40K Painting Guide (see below, lain across my sinful box of Space Crusade "extras" [models I bought to spice the game up]):
On the principle of "you can always learn something if you bother to read the manual or book" I opened the Painting Guide and began to read. Back in 1994 it was written, "Thou best but some clippers to snip parts out of the frames/sprues so you do not break them!" I agreed, but it took me until 2016 when I independently purchased a cheap pair and entered into a happier modelling experience. You always snap something even if you use the sharpest modelling knife. Perhaps my older self was more attuned to continuous improvement. Two hints I have yet to follow is the use of small pieces of BlueTac in a prototype version instead of "gluing and regretting". Pinning with metal rods was also promoted, though [partly because of the infeasible size of Space Marine weaponry. Still I was impressed and read on (see below, I highlighted bits I found useful - this is a read and scribble type of text book; not much resale value in it after I have finished with it):
The painting instructions were very interesting. My technique was: basic undercoat (black to grey depending on whim and paint availability), an all over shade into the recesses [dark colour], Base [basic colour - mid tone] and then Highlight "I" and possibly "II" [lighter colour version]. GW reversed some of my logic promoting in almost all cases a white undercoat to brighten the end result of the model, go Base, then Shade only in the recesses, then Highlight "I" and "II". OK I can see a saving there. I needlessly shade the whole figure. One point that was coming across, the least paint on the figure, the more detail comes through. In tact they recommended watering down the initial Base layer - possibly painting two-three thin layers instead of one thicker layer. I chose my unfinished Ultra Marines as perfect for the 1994 retro painting experience (see below, far left are my early 2000 painting efforts [white lining on the shoulder pads] - horrendously overworked blending ending up with a very [almost too] grainy finish, moving to the centre are the troops I painted circa 2010+ for the resurrected Space Crusade Game [yellow lining on shoulder pads], then the undercoated and Vallejo Washed "others" waiting to be painted):
Note: I will never have a Space Marine Army, just some random things (sections) for Space Crusade and alternate Skirmish Sci-Fi or RPG rules (such as Rogue Trader). This should work to my advantage as "I don't really care' about the figures - it is more to see if I can paint to a plan and see if that plan producers a better figure in the end ;)
I guess in my old age I am finally trying to find short-cuts! Watch this space ;)
On the principle of "you can always learn something if you bother to read the manual or book" I opened the Painting Guide and began to read. Back in 1994 it was written, "Thou best but some clippers to snip parts out of the frames/sprues so you do not break them!" I agreed, but it took me until 2016 when I independently purchased a cheap pair and entered into a happier modelling experience. You always snap something even if you use the sharpest modelling knife. Perhaps my older self was more attuned to continuous improvement. Two hints I have yet to follow is the use of small pieces of BlueTac in a prototype version instead of "gluing and regretting". Pinning with metal rods was also promoted, though [partly because of the infeasible size of Space Marine weaponry. Still I was impressed and read on (see below, I highlighted bits I found useful - this is a read and scribble type of text book; not much resale value in it after I have finished with it):
The painting instructions were very interesting. My technique was: basic undercoat (black to grey depending on whim and paint availability), an all over shade into the recesses [dark colour], Base [basic colour - mid tone] and then Highlight "I" and possibly "II" [lighter colour version]. GW reversed some of my logic promoting in almost all cases a white undercoat to brighten the end result of the model, go Base, then Shade only in the recesses, then Highlight "I" and "II". OK I can see a saving there. I needlessly shade the whole figure. One point that was coming across, the least paint on the figure, the more detail comes through. In tact they recommended watering down the initial Base layer - possibly painting two-three thin layers instead of one thicker layer. I chose my unfinished Ultra Marines as perfect for the 1994 retro painting experience (see below, far left are my early 2000 painting efforts [white lining on the shoulder pads] - horrendously overworked blending ending up with a very [almost too] grainy finish, moving to the centre are the troops I painted circa 2010+ for the resurrected Space Crusade Game [yellow lining on shoulder pads], then the undercoated and Vallejo Washed "others" waiting to be painted):
Note: I will never have a Space Marine Army, just some random things (sections) for Space Crusade and alternate Skirmish Sci-Fi or RPG rules (such as Rogue Trader). This should work to my advantage as "I don't really care' about the figures - it is more to see if I can paint to a plan and see if that plan producers a better figure in the end ;)
I guess in my old age I am finally trying to find short-cuts! Watch this space ;)
Tuesday, 18 September 2018
Remember: 1973 Was not too good a year either!
I was bemoaning the state of the world: Brexit, Trump, Putin, UK Political Parties (May and Corbyn as well as north of the border) and thinking how messed up everything was. Then a good friend reminded me of how bad it was all in the past and how things at least got better! (Eventually for the people who didn't get killed in the meantime). He wrote in an email:
1973 wasn't a particularly "good year" -
August 15 – The U.S. bombing of Cambodia ends, officially halting 12 years of combat activity in Southeast Asia.
Middle East:
For us (UK) the 'Troubles' and
USA
- January 20 – President Richard Nixon is sworn in for his second term.
June 25 – Watergate scandal: Former White House counsel John Dean begins his testimony before the Senate Watergate Committee.
today is easy peasy ...
Answer: Keep Calm and Wargame It! More details followed ...
Money
Inflation has risen to 8.4%
IRA
March – Two IRA bombs exploded in London, killing one person and injuring 250 others. Ten people were arrested hours later at Heathrow Airport on suspicion of being involved in the bombings.
- 8 September – The IRA detonated bombs in Manchester and Victoria Station in London.[21]
- 10 September
- IRA bombs at King's Cross and Euston railway stations in London injured 13 people.[21]
- The fashion store Biba re-opened in Kensington High Street.[22]
- 12 September – Further IRA bombs exploded in Oxford Street and Sloane Square.[21]
War
- January 15 – Vietnam War: Citing progress in peace negotiations, President Richard Nixon announces the suspension of offensive action in North Vietnam.
And so it goes ...
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