Eastern Front (4) Chain of Command: Germans v Soviets

The German MG42 shuffles into place alongside the Rifle Section to give it some "much needed fire power assistance". The German NCO's and Senior Commander elect to stay more than 4" inches back to avoid getting "bad things happening" dice rolls affecting their depleted Force Morale (see below):

Nevertheless the "shock" steadily mounts (see below), though the MG42s pour out a stream of devastating firepower making the Russians suffer. The German player is now in the tactical dilemma of needing his NCOs forward as he is losing 'fighting' bodies at an alarming rate (see below):  

The Russians in "Suppression Wood" are particularly "well hammered" (see below). To alleviate the pressure on their comrades the Russians hiding in the Wooden Dacha become 'Heroes of the Soviet Union' nominees as they heroically expose themselves to the Germans and open fire with the LMG team adding more shock. The point blank German response makes them 'posthumous heroes" KIA all three of the LMG and the Junior Leader to boot (see below):

Russian Force Morale is tumbling at this point while somehow the Germans are holding it together despite the almost critical levels of shock (see below):

Then it happens. Despite all the German NCOs in the front line a good round of Russian fire breaks the German Second Section and they route. The Russian player smiles as his carefully hoarded Six Chain of Command Points are used to "End the Turn" immediately removing routed troops. The following "bad things happening" dice rolls reduce the German Force Morale to zero and "Game Over" (see below):

Wow.A good one. Instructional, even if for the things we got wrong and emphasising the need to"read the rules again" as there are plenty of other special things we could be doing to add spice and flavour to the games.

Great to get the Soviets on table. Need to paint up some more Americans and 'odds and sods' of other nationalities. There are plenty of speciality "Platoon Forces" hiding in the loft wanting painting.

:)

Eastern Front (3) Chain of Command: Germans v Soviets

The Germans looked on in horror as the last man of the First Section dropped lifelessly to the floor. Immediately their professional training clicked in and they turned the small hillock into a fortress, preparing themselves for the inevitable Russian assault (see below):

The MG42 in the cemetery was told to move up (see below):

Meanwhile the Russians lined the woods on the German left (see below):

And also to the far German right [definition of the Nazi party I think] figures shrouded like ghosts emerged from the trees and formed a firing line (see below):

The firing started and the shock started to mount on the German defenders (see below):

Three and a half "healthy" Soviet squads faced two "heavily armed" German squads in a fight to the death!

Eastern Front (2) Chain of Command: Germans v Soviets

The Soviets put pressure on the isolated German section by fanning out another section into a firing line along cover (see below):

It works as 'shock' and 'KIA' mount on the startled Germans (see below):

Finally there is only the Adjutant left who is ruthlessly hunted down and also eliminated (see below, actually the Soviet player was the father shooting his son! Teaching his protege that "all is fair in love and war"):

However, the trade-off is not all one way, as the German rifle section on the central hill manages to take out the Soviet LMG team with accurately aimed fire. As the only Soviets in LOS are the LMG team, they have to take it (see below):

The survivors however are capable of being 'shocked' but as it happens not quite "pinned" (see below):

It all still hangs on the balance but the complete elimination of the German section with all its leaders has seriously dented their Force Morale. They cannot afford another reverse!

Eastern Front (1) Chain of Command: Germans v Soviets

The OoB:

• German Infantry Platoon + Adjutant 
• Russian Infantry Platoon + Extra Infantry Squad

The same terrain as used for the Normandy battle, but this time used correctly going across the table (East [Nazi] - West [Sov]) instead of the narrower up/down (North - South) which should mean more room for maneuver (see below) :

Both sides get an even amount of positioning in the Patrol Phase, but the Germans get the better of the Command Dice as the Russians had to effectively "miss a go" rather than let their Senior Leader face the 'might' of the Germans all on his own (see below,the Germans take up strong defensive positions):

When the Russians got onto the board they decided to use the cover for as much effect as possible (see below, nore the Russians moving into "Suppression Wood" as named after the last battle):

An exchange of fire sees the first German casualties in the 'turnip field'. One suppression and a KIA (see below):

The Russians keep up a telling fir on the lone German Platoon in the 'turnip field', while avoiding with the two German Platoons to the top (north) of the table (see below):

It comes at a price as "Suppression Wood" lives up to its name in true style. The young headstrong lieutenant commanding the Russian First Platoon becomes another casualty of this struggle of ideology. The Russian Captain (Senior Commander) has to step in (see below):

As it stands the game hangs in the balance. Can the Germans afford to stay passive, not being elite German Panzer Grenadiers means only half as many MG42s!

Final Satges: "Flocked Soviets"

The Soviets are now based, textured and dabbed in flock (aka railway scenic grass):

In close-up the running rifleman figure (see below):

The kneeling rifleman figure (see below):

Clumps of 'static grass' to follow, then the project is finished.

Note to Self: Painting WWII Russian Infantry (20mm,1/72)Preparation/Painting Guide

The Russians are coming! 

Warning: A long post follows with lots of pictures... but I was enjoying myself so much I just could not stop myself ... and also I did not want to forget anything I had done. I shall explain the crazy logic behind my excessive number of  layers of detail to this painting process (on cheap plastic) in another post. Meanwhile sit back and enjoy my madness or simply ignore it!

;)

Following on from my recent "Chain of Command" games using my WWII British Platoon I decided  I needed to allow some other toys to fulfill their "wargaming destiny". So kit that had laid dormant for nearly a decade (ahem plus), painfully stored the attic in their basic chipped paint scheme finally makes it to the 'painting table' (see below, "1/72 Classic Esci/Italeri WW2 Summer Russians"):

For some reason (perhaps watching the H2 History Channel "Russian WW2 Weekend" has something to do with it), I fancied attacking the pile of unpainted and partially painted Russians (plastics and metals), starting with the plastics first. In this way I could safely experiment and build up a paint set before moving onto the more tricky metals. As stated earlier I opted for my "old school" Esci/Italeri Summer Russians. I particularly wanted to put to good use the extensive collection of Vallejo paints I have acquired (see below):

Note: I am basing these as individual figures for the "Chain of Command" rule set. My previous attempt at painting Russian infantry were for "Command Decision" which requires them to be based "in twos on a 20mm square", which IMHO makes them look a tad cramped. Depending on the results I may well go back and convert these to single bases.

WWII Russian Painting Experiment: Esci/Italeri WWII (20mm, 1/72) Summer Russians

"Plastic Figures" Preparation:

• Washed in warm soapy (detergent water)
• Cut from sprue with sharp knife
• Dry off water with dish towel and leave to dry fully
• Paint with slightly watered down PVA glue mixed with a dark brown (I used Vallejo Game Colour Charred Brown, because it was Dark Brown and 'to hand') and don't panic if it looks a mess at this stage (see below)

Help my figures are covered in "PVA Gunk!", a very messy painting tray. 

Note: These are old figures getting a repaint which is why they look different to 'virgin ones' from the packet show in the later photos when the PVA had dried (see below):

The factory production line akin to the Soviet Stalin "Five Year Plan" (see below):

However once dry the preparation stage is complete (see below, 3 x Russian two man LMG teams), the PVA has shrunk over the figure creating a seal that helps softer plastics be more rigid. By mixing in a dark paint it also help highlight subtle detail in the figure (such as shoulder straps) and helps as a painting guide later. 

An example batch of 'prone Russians' sealed in "dried and tightened" PVA (see below):  

A close-up of a single figure showing a surprising amount of detail, a work of art really not just a kid's toy. I cannot recollect this figure being and the prone LMG figure being in the original Esci set, but this one definitely comes from the Italeri set in hard 'plastic' (see below): 

Alternative for "Metal Figures" Preparation:

• Wash in warm detergent water  
• Dry off water with dish towel and let dry
• Remove flash with sharp knife
• File off mold lines with small modelling tools

Painting Guide:

• Undercoat figures (see below) light to dark brown (Ex, I used Games Workshop "Foundation Calthan Brown" again because it was near to hand, but any Darkish-Mid Brown will do). Note: Yes this loses the "PVA painting guide marks" (see above) but sadly this step is needed, but you will remember in your "mind's eye" trust me.

• Wash the figures in a Black Wash (I used Valleo Transparent Acrylic Wash: Black Shade). This tones and partially brings back the painting guide, again this serves as a painting guide (see below):

The REAL" Painting Starts:

Phase I: Shade/Mid-Colour Blocking: 

• Helmet: Vallejo Model Colour Russian Green (aka 70894), the most distinctive Russian uniform element IMHO (see below):  

• Tunic: Base shade of uniform (wait for it) English Uniform Vallejo Model Colour (70921) and not as I expected the Vallejo Russian WWII Uniform. Why you may ask? Please see the following excellent article on Painting WWII Russians from a blogger called Steve Balagan. 

Anyway things's should now be looking like this (see below):

Close up of the excellent prone LMG figure (see below):

• Blanket and larger bags and packs: Vallejo Model Colour German [ahem, not quite what you would expect for the Russian army] Camouflage Beige (70821). In a bit of a dilemma here as I want to keep the baggage authentic but simple, so I am trying not to paint "50 shades of Green" (see below):  

• Waist Belts and Ammunition Pouches: Vallejo Model Colour Flat Earth (70983), although you need good eyesight to see it against the background of English Uniform (see below, strap over the right shoulder):

• Boots: Black Vallejo Model Colour (70950) to show that these "boots are made for walking" all over the Nazi hoards (see below): 

• Face and Hands: Vallejo Model Colour Flat Flesh (70955), an awkward colour as it looks too bright and white, but I am going to apply a wash over this later (see below): 

• Highlight Tunic: Vallejo Model Colour Khaki Grey (70880). Some may say perhaps a strange choice to highlight now, wash then to highlight again, but stay with me there is method to my madness (see below):

• Various Metal Bits: Gun Metal (Weapons and Entrenching Tool): Using Vallejo Model Colours Gun Metal (70863), to point out the metal bits without being too shiny (see below): 

• Wood Weapon Stocks and Entrenching Tool Handle: Vallejo Game Colours (Charred Burnt Brown and/or Beast Brown), a two step shade and highlight process (see below): 

Getting there now as all the "base shade colours" have been added. It is "Intermission Time" so:

• "WASH ONE" is applied again in Vallejo Acrylic Wash Umber Shade to dull everything down and add some depth to the figure (see below):

• "WASH TWO" is the Vallejo Acrylic Black wash again applied over he metal parts to dull down the shiny bits as per every self-respecting combat formation (see below):

• Gallery (1): of "other Russians at this stage" (close-up detail on some single figures, SMG and Rifleman, see below), the wash has made the figures shiny:

• Gallery (2): of "other Russians at this stage" (Soviet "Masse", see below):

From another angle (see below):

Phase II: Highlight Time

• Helmet Highlight: Vallejo Model Colour Russian Green (aka 70894) mixed with increasing amounts of Vallejo Game Colour Gold Yellow (72007) to give subtle shades of green highlights.

The "Soviet masse" (see below):

• Tunic Highlight: Straight back to Vallejo Model Colour Khaki Grey (70880) and yes I know we've just washed over it, try adding Vallejo Game Colour Golden Yellow (72007) and Vallejo Game Colour Dead White (72001).

And a close-up on some "singleton Soviet Snipers" (see below):

The "Chain of Command" Platoon formation seen from afar with their "Yellow Tunic highlights" (see below):

Next a "touch of White added" to the extreme bits of "highlighted Yellow" (see below):

These "White highlights to the tunic" shown a little closer (see below):

The "White highlight to tunic" with a very close-up LMG prone figure (see below):

• Boot Highlight: Vallejo Model Colour Black (70950) mixed with Vallejo Game Colour Stonewall Grey (72049). This is dabbed in patches over the earlier black muddied by the Umber Wash for a subtle effect (see below, the whole platoon and a few close up):   

• Bags and Blanket Highlight: Vallejo Model Colour German [ahem, not quite what you would expect] Camouflage Beige (70821) mixed with Vallejo Game Colour Dead White (72001).

• Ammo Pouches and Straps: Vallejo Flames of War Read Leather (818), mixed with Vallejo Model Colour Flat Earth (70983) and highlighted with Vallejo Game Colour Gold Yellow (72007
• Wood: Vallejo Model Colour Beige Brown (70875) mixed with Vallejo Game Colour Gold Yellow (72007)
• Metal Bits: Vallejo Game Colour Gun Metal Grey (70863) in a tiny thin highlight strip
• Flesh: Vallejo Model Colour Flat Flesh (70955) mixed with a small amount of Vallejo Game Colour Dead White, and dabbed as highlight spots
• Shoulder Tabs (I): [Note these were added rather late in the process and it would have been better if they had been included in the base painting section too, ho hum] Rectangular strips of Vallejo Game Colour Gory Red (72011) as 1939-1942 Soviet Infantry has "red" shoulder tabs, post 43 it was a more subdued affair (see below): 

• Shoulder Tabs (II): This is retro fitting the "shoulder tabs" into the previous stages to tidy up the edges of the red tab and tone down its in your face colour (which would be more appropriate for the NKVD units)
• Black line with thin brush around red shoulder tab
• Umber wash shoulder tab area to regain that "brown" feel
• Re-touch tunic (Vallejo Model Colour Khaki Grey 70880) and highlight (adding some amounts of Vallejo Game Colour Golden Yellow and Vallejo Dead White) on and around the shoulders
• Subtle red highlight on a small part of the shoulder tab (see below for the end of painting results): 

Phase III: Are you TOUGH enough for Table-Top?

• Varnish Gloss/Satin: Depending on availability (much to my surprise I do not own any Gloss Varnish, so I subbed in the nearest I had a Humbrol Satin Varnish, originally purchased for a 'water/sea effect' project I never got around to doing (see below, first a tester on two figures, then the whole batch as in A Chain of Command basic platoon):

• Varnish Matte: To tone down the glossy effect a layer of Matte Varnish was applied after leaviong the Gloss/Satin a full day to dry and cure (see below): 

Phase IV: Detailing the Base:

• PVA the base around the figure and dip in tub of "Grit" (see below): 

• Ink the Grit Base a Dark Brown: In this case reconstituting some "gelled up" Winsor and Newton Ink with water and adding a bit Anita's Acrylics Earth Brown, so the sand and grit soaks it up and gives it shade as it dries out (see below): 

• Shade the Base: Anita Acrylic Earth Brown (see below):

• Highlight Layers to Base: Add Anita's Acrylic Cafe Brown to the Base Shade of Anita's Acrylic Earth Brown for "first highlight layer". Then add a dab of Vallejo Game Colour Golden Yellow as a follow on "second highlight layer (see below, WIP left [basic shade colour], middle [first highlight] to right [second highlight]):

• Final White Highlight: Subtle dry brush white (Vallejo Game Colour Dead White) to highlight tip/edges of grit (see below): 

• Flock Base: Add watered down PVA in smears to flat areas of base, dip base in "flock box", wait thirty seconds and tap to release excess (see below): 

• Add Clumps of Static Grass: Choose random sections of base to add tufts of grass, by dabbing PVA to base and pressing static grass to base and tap to release excess as per flock (see below):  

Soviet Office with classic upraised pistol pose (see below):

The ubiquitous Russian SMG armed trooper (see below):  

Advancing rifleman (see below): 

The LMG section (see below):

Now we are ready to commission this platoon into the Red Army for Poland (1939) or Barbarossa (1941) to the Summer Battles of 1942 (After that the shoulder tabs change ... but do we really care?). Note: Finland (1940, aka "The Winter War") is probably a push for these figures as these Soviets are all in Summer Uniform.

Final Note: I have a lot more "Russians from various manufactures" to now consider painting (at my 'leisure', as in if I ever manage to get any more "time off" seeing as how I have 'neglected' house and garden duties for the sake of the Red Army) but now at least I have the 'Geordie's Big Battles' (patent pending) "Mark One: Russian Painting Set, Guide and Travel Box" to hand. 

Note: Paints and Brushes (which I estimate cost approximately £60 to gather over many years, but yes it can be done much cheaper) on the bottom tray (see below):

And WIP figures in the top layer of the  box (see below, in this case Italeri's "ex Esci" 'Summer Russians' retailing at approx £7 a pack and I have at least three packs to work on):

As I said other manufacturers to follow (Revell Summer, PSC Summer, Revell Winter, Italeri Winter, note no Caesar or Airfix [do these figures actually paint up well?] "as of yet")

Hope you found some of the above useful .. perhaps too long for one blog post but I wanted it all in one place for future reference and not spread around.

;)